Our expert answers three of your questions about machine embroidery.
Q. What type of bobbin thread do I use with an embroidery machine?
A. The bobbin thread you use will depend on the project. Most of the time, I recommend using 60 wt. bobbin thread for embroidery. Most embroidery thread is 40 wt.; using a lighter-weight bobbin thread adjusts the tension slightly, pulling the top thread to the wrong side a little bit. This keeps the bobbin thread from showing on the right side of the fabric. A bonus is that you can use a single-color bobbin thread and not have to change it throughout the embroidering process. I usually use plain white, either wound myself or from prefilled bobbins. Pre-filled bobbins typically hold more thread than the ones you wind yourself, and you can reuse the bobbins. If your machine can use cardboard bobbins, consider using those and recycling them once they’re empty. Just make sure to check the type of bobbin your machine uses and get compatible ones. If embroidering in dark colors, black bobbin thread may be preferable. You can find bobbin thread in various colors if you’re so inclined, but I generally find it unnecessary.
Of course, there are times you won’t want to use bobbin thread. Freestanding lace is an obvious example, as are some in-the-hoop (ITH) projects and items where you can expect to see the back of the design. In this case, I generally use the same embroidery thread as I’m using for the top thread in the bobbin. It won’t look exactly the same on both sides — there’s always an obvious wrong side — but it’s much less noticeable. And if some of it ends up showing on the right side, who’s to know? It’s the same thread.
Finally, I don’t recommend using metallic thread in the bobbin if it’s avoidable. Sometimes you might have to, like with certain freestanding lace. But if you can, use either bobbin thread or a similar-colored regular embroidery thread. Metallic thread is tricky to work with and breaks easily, so only add that headache into your bobbin if there’s no way around it.
Q. As a beginner, are there any tools you recommend besides the machine?
A. The machine and the hoops are obviously the most important things for a beginner, along with some stabilizer and thread. There are, however, several useful things to have in addition. Assuming you also sew, you’ll have a lot of basics already, such as marking tools and fabric scissors, so I won’t go into that.
One thing I recommend is to designate a pair of scissors as stabilizer scissors. Some stabilizers are fabric-like, but some are very papery. I prefer not to use my fabric shears on stabilizer, but paper scissors aren’t great for the more fabric-like stabilizer. Having stabilizer-specific scissors prevents you from having to worry about which scissors to choose for which stabilizer.
After you embroider, it’s really handy to have a pair of sharp, pointy thread snips to cut your thread ends and jump threads. It’s also good to have a pair of tweezers available, which can help you grab those little jump threads and hold them steady so you can cut close to the fabric.
If you’re planning to do a lot of ITH projects or appliqué, you may want to invest in a pair of appliqué scissors. These bent scissors are designed to cut very close to a stitching line. If you’re not ready to go that far yet, though, you can use your sharp, pointy snips instead. You can also acquire some embroidery tape or painter’s tape, which are similar to each other. It’s often necessary to tape pieces in place when doing ITH designs, and while technically you can use cellophane tape, embroidery or painter’s tape is much easier to work with and pulls off more easily.
I suggest getting at least a basic version of embroidery software. First, check your machine’s manufacturer to see if they have a free version of their software, since you know it’s compatible (though most software will be). If they don’t, do a little internet searching for other options. I recommend Floriani’s software — it’s a good basic version, and it’s easy to upgrade if you start playing around and decide you need more features. Free versions usually just have the ability to do a basic resize (remember not to go more than 10% up or down!), flip, rotate, and play with colors. But you’ll be surprised how often you use the software to get everything perfect before you begin.
You don’t need a lot of specialized tools to begin embroidering effectively. In fact, even advanced embroidery doesn’t require much more than what I’ve listed here. But do consider picking up the few tools that will make your life as an embroiderer easier.
Q. I’ve lost my hoop placement templates; how can I easily and effectively place my designs on my projects?
A. To be honest, I almost never use my templates. I find them to just be an extra thing to deal with when I’m hooping my projects. In addition, my templates don’t quite line up correctly with my machine — so most of the time when I use them, I have to adjust afterwards anyway.
For me, the most effective way to place my designs is to use the notches on the hoop. I believe these are fairly universal—there’s one on each edge that aligns with the center of the hoop. By connecting opposite notches with a ruler, you can find the center point and align your centering marks with it. I confess, in most cases I just eyeball it, and then I use the machine to adjust my needle to align exactly with the center point. This feature, found on most machines, is the most important tool I use to get my placement perfect.
If you’re floating your fabric in the hoop, it’s even easier. Draw lines on the stabilizer connecting the notches and align the center with the intersection of the lines. If you don’t want to draw on the stabilizer, you can also use a grid mat (unless your stabilizer is very opaque), aligning the grid lines under the stabilizer with the notches so you get a center intersection.
If you really like using templates, though, you can make yourself a set of replacement ones. Most craft stores carry clear or translucent plastic sheets. Trace the inside of the inner hoop onto a plastic sheet and cut it out. It should fit neatly into the hoop. Then use your notches to mark the center of each side, and connect the centers with a permanent marker to get your hoop center. If desired, put your hoop onto the machine and move the needle to each side to get the perimeter of your embroidery area, which is smaller than the hoop. Mark this as well. You can also add a grid or whatever else you think will be helpful in placing your designs. Do this for each hoop, and you’ll have a brand-new set of templates.
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