How to Topstitch: Top 10 Tips for Perfect Stitching

Topstitching is seen on bags, jeans, jackets, home décor projects, and accessories.

When stitched right it gives added dimension and, in the case of jeans, gives that store-bought quality to the finished garment. It’s a stitch that is designed to be seen (and complimented on). It can also serve to hold facings in place and give a firmer quality to hems.

10 Tips for Mastering Topstitching

1

Don’t backstitch to lock topstitching. Pull the top thread to the wrong side and tie the tails together to give the right side a clean finish.

2

Any thread that’s appropriate for constructing the project is appropriate for topstitching. For heavyweight fabric, consider topstitching thread, which is intended to create a more raised effect. For lightweight fabrics, silk or embroidery thread may be appropriate.

3

Choose the needle that will deliver the sharpest, most even stitching. Consider a microfiber or sharp needle, or if using topstitching or other heavyweight thread, use a topstitching needle. Use a twin needle for a more dramatic impact.

4

Choose a presser foot that allows for easy visualization and if possible helps to guide the fabric. Blind-hem feet, edge-stitching feet, zipper feet, and feet with adjustable or multiple guides are all good choices.

5

Check the tension. Test on a fabric scrap to make sure there are no puckering or skipped stitches.

6

Increase the stitch length slightly. This usually looks better, but play around with length to find the one that looks best on the fabric.

7

When topstitching around a corner, mark the pivot beforehand to ensure the topstitching distance remains consistent around the turn.

8

Topstitching can be any distance from an edge, fold, or seam, but most fall into the 1/4″ to 3/8″ range.

This article originally appeared in the April/May issue of Sew News. Subscribe now so you don’t miss any great sewing patterns, inspiration, and articles like this one!

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